Anchors

ERNST

E qualized
R edundant
N o extension (that could shock load)
S olid
T imely

“Magic X” equalized, multi directional but not redundant

“Standard Anchor” with a figure 8:

Multi directional Anchor: Knots on every strand. Redundant but uses a lot of sling

Remember: if you clip to an anchor with a sling it will not take dynamic forces

Protection

Bolt

10mm * 5 – 10 cm ist I.O.
If you can see the thread.. its bad

Hanger

rusty sucks…
welded edges suck
if it moves it may still be ok

Pitons

if you have a hammer you can sound test it..
otherwise it's difficult to know wether its good or not

Cams and nuts

3 good pieces are a good anchor.. otherwise use 4

Angle between pieces:

less than 90: essential
less than 60: ~
less than 45: good

Wrap 7 pull 3 anchor

* wrap unconnected cordelette around tree 7 times * knot ends together (EDK) * pull 3 strands * tie 8 * voila