https://reisewiki.stlt.de/ 2026-08-22T07:28:37+02:00 https://reisewiki.stlt.de/ https://reisewiki.stlt.de/lib/tpl/stlt_ntnu/images/favicon.ico text/html 2014-03-18T17:43:14+02:00 https://reisewiki.stlt.de/doku.php?id=mountaineeringwiki:school:anchors&rev=1395160994&do=diff [[mountaineeringwiki:mountaineeringwiki|mountaineeringwiki:mountaineeringwiki]] ====== Anchors ====== **ERNST**\\ **E** qualized\\ **R** edundant\\ **N** o extension (that could shock load)\\ **S** olid\\ **T** imely\\ {{:mountaineeringwiki:anchor_magic_x.jpg|}}\\ “Magic X” equalized, multi directional but not redundant\\ \\ {{:mountaineeringwiki:anchor_3piece.jpg|}}\\ “Standard Anchor” with a figure 8: \\ \\ {{:mountaineeringwiki:anchor_multidir.jpg|}}\\ Multi directional Anchor: Knots o… text/html 2014-03-18T17:43:15+02:00 https://reisewiki.stlt.de/doku.php?id=mountaineeringwiki:school:ascending&rev=1395160995&do=diff ====== Ascending ====== There are countless ways to ascend a rope, here are a few simple ones: === Reverso style Belay device as ascending ratchett === * set up belay device in autoblock mode * build leg prussik * go up, if you want to rappel undweight belay device, clip biner behin belay device into harness & rappel === Garder Hitch (one way ratchett) === * loop rope through 2 biners * go round and through one === Grigri/ reverso style and ascender === * attach leg loop to ascen… text/html 2014-03-18T17:43:15+02:00 https://reisewiki.stlt.de/doku.php?id=mountaineeringwiki:school:basics&rev=1395160995&do=diff ===== carabiners ===== * non-locker rope to things * locker people to things * HMS Carabiners for Munter Hitch ===== Rope ===== **=Rapunzels hair: in use, ready to use or stowed away** * rope to harness rewoven figure 8 * knot should look perfect and the loose end should fit in a fist * a longer end is annoying and can be tied of with a barrel knot, tieing a "Yosemite finish" (rope back through loop) is a questionable idea ==== Joining Ropes ==== * Double Fisherman joi… text/html 2014-03-18T17:43:15+02:00 https://reisewiki.stlt.de/doku.php?id=mountaineeringwiki:school:belay&rev=1395160995&do=diff ====== Belaying ====== ===== Language ===== |on belay?| | Belay on!|| |Climbing!| | Climb on!|| |Tension! | |Tension on!|| |Up rope!| | OK|| |ready to lower! | |Lowering!|| |Off belay | |OK....|| |...| | belay off!|| ===== Multi Pitch Top Belaying ===== * I think there is no reason not to use a reverso-style belay device for top belaying in multi-pitch climbs * Remember: it WILL NOT AUTOBLOCK with climbers in different directions * keep hand on break stra… text/html 2014-03-18T17:43:15+02:00 https://reisewiki.stlt.de/doku.php?id=mountaineeringwiki:school:rappelling&rev=1395160995&do=diff ====== Rappelling ====== == Rappel helper == * Girth Hitch 2lengthSling to Belay Loop * Overhand in middle * Biner with belay device through both strands * Clip other side to belay loop or to Anchor * Add Autoblock through leg loop == Stacking rope for rappel == Butterfly, start with big loops and get smaller (or start small, get big and flip) == Stopper knots == * use only if you have to * DO NOT FORGET THEM * 8 may be pulled though with **a lot** of force, barrel knot m… text/html 2014-03-18T17:43:15+02:00 https://reisewiki.stlt.de/doku.php?id=mountaineeringwiki:school:rockrescue&rev=1395160995&do=diff ====== Rock Rescue ====== ..In case something went wrong.. ===== Scenario1 ===== You are on a multi-pitch climb top belaying your partner and he can't (or won't) make it What do you do? == If the way down is clear and you can see him release the belay device and lower him == This is what the second hole in the reverso-style belay device is for. Using it the belay device can be turned thereby disengaging the autoblock. It will release apruptly so you have to get more control on the breaking … text/html 2014-03-18T17:43:14+02:00 https://reisewiki.stlt.de/doku.php?id=mountaineeringwiki:school:school&rev=1395160994&do=diff ====== Mountaineering and climbing safety ======