mountaineeringwiki:mountaineeringwiki
Anchors
ERNST
E qualized
R edundant
N o extension (that could shock load)
S olid
T imely

“Magic X” equalized, multi directional but not redundant

“Standard Anchor” with a figure 8:

Multi directional Anchor: Knots on every strand. Redundant but uses a lot of sling
- Remember: if you clip to an anchor with a sling it will not take dynamic forces
Protection
Bolt
10mm * 5 – 10 cm ist I.O.
If you can see the thread.. its bad
Hanger
rusty sucks…
welded edges suck
if it moves it may still be ok
Pitons
if you have a hammer you can sound test it..
otherwise it's difficult to know wether its good or not
Cams and nuts
3 good pieces are a good anchor.. otherwise use 4
Angle between pieces:
- less than 90: essential
- less than 60: ~
- less than 45: good
Wrap 7 pull 3 anchor
* wrap unconnected cordelette around tree 7 times * knot ends together (EDK) * pull 3 strands * tie 8 * voila