mountaineeringwiki:mountaineeringwiki

Anchors

ERNST

E qualized
R edundant
N o extension (that could shock load)
S olid
T imely


“Magic X” equalized, multi directional but not redundant


“Standard Anchor” with a figure 8:


Multi directional Anchor: Knots on every strand. Redundant but uses a lot of sling

  • Remember: if you clip to an anchor with a sling it will not take dynamic forces

Protection

Bolt

10mm * 5 – 10 cm ist I.O.
If you can see the thread.. its bad

Hanger

rusty sucks…
welded edges suck
if it moves it may still be ok

Pitons

if you have a hammer you can sound test it..
otherwise it's difficult to know wether its good or not

Cams and nuts

3 good pieces are a good anchor.. otherwise use 4

Angle between pieces:

  • less than 90: essential
  • less than 60: ~
  • less than 45: good

Wrap 7 pull 3 anchor

* wrap unconnected cordelette around tree 7 times * knot ends together (EDK) * pull 3 strands * tie 8 * voila


2026/08/23 16:15, 127.0.0.1