Table of Contents
Rock Rescue
..In case something went wrong..
Scenario1
You are on a multi-pitch climb top belaying your partner and he can't (or won't) make it
What do you do?
If the way down is clear and you can see him release the belay device and lower him
This is what the second hole in the reverso-style belay device is for. Using it the belay device can be turned thereby disengaging the autoblock. It will release apruptly so you have to get more control on the breaking hand by redirecting it through a biner above the device
A nut tool is an ideal leaver. Redirect the breaking strand for control!
Using a redirected sling to turn the device
If the way up is clear you may want to haul him up
If you are not really really strong you will need a pulley system:
3:1 pulley, the belay device is a natural ratchet
For more leverage you have to build an additional 2:1 with the end of the rope
Scenario2
You are on a multi-pitch climb Top belaying, your buddy falls and is injured:
- Pick belay setup apart, prepare for rappel
- Rappel down
- take him with you